OEM Manual
Before we start
We are beyond excited to finally release this document to the world! This is a creation from GreenLenux and SD Factory Suspension Works, we'll keep updating the document in the future so it will be compatible with the next OEM updates. You have to keep in mind one thing: it is a guide to help you setup your bike, not a magic setup maker fixer thinger. You'll have to read, and use your brain to come up with the best setup for yourself.
Installation
Download
Download the brand new OEM pack here on MXB-MODS.com (alts: Mega, Mediafire).
Player
If you had a correct installation of v0.18.0 before, you can simply overwrite all existing bikes and replace with the new ones. All your previous skins should work perfectly fine.
Some of your current model swaps will NOT work properly. They need to be updated by the modellers due to changes to the import. This is just a matter of time so please be patient!
Move the content from MX OEM ... PLAYER into your own mods folder.
For example: My Documents\PiBoSo\MX Bikes\mods\
Server
Move the content from MX OEM ... SERVER into the servers' mods folder.
General
Fuel
Fuel is the go fast juice that we put into the motorcycle to allow it to run.
Fuel load can be very helpful for shaving a tenth or two off a lap time so it is important for racers to ‘lighten the load’ to get the lightest bike and the fastest lap times.
In turn, it is also important to find the amount of fuel you use during a moto as running out will leave you stranded! You can see your remaining fuel load from your previous ride by going to the pits > garage > general.
Here in the bottom right you will see a fuel amount, this is the remaining fuel in your tank. Using some basic subtraction, you can deduce the amount of fuel you need to take so you are not weighed down by extra.
Tyres
Types
Midsoft
Primarily used for Softer/Moist grippy dirt, it is the in between tyre available in terms of tyre flexibility hence mid soft tyre flexibility for soft dirt.
Medium
Primarily used for more solid dirt and hardpack/sun baked, it is the softest tyre available which works well for hard tracks since the knobbies can flex to find traction more so than other compounds.
Sand
Primarily used for very soft dirt/sand, it is the stiffest in terms of knobbies flexibility and has great straight line traction however it suffers in the turns due to the scoop like knobbies. It is stiff so that the tyre can pull through the dirt rather than flexing around it since it is soft.
Sizes
Front
80/100 - 90/90
Rear
100/90 - 110/90 - 120/80
The tyre sizes can be confusing for anyone (even irl riders!!) so here is a very simplified explanation that can help you perfect your setups
The first number in the tyre (such as 100,110,120) is generally referred to as the ‘size’ but actually it is the ‘profile’ and this is the width of the tyre in mm. A wider tyre provides greater grip/traction however a result of this is a larger surface area which gives you more friction/drag thusly slowing you down a little bit - a larger tyre will also make riding thin ruts more difficult as the tyre is fighting to stay inside.
A thinner tyre would provide less grip however you have less drag and can go a little faster. The thinner tyre also will make riding thin ruts easier as the smaller tyre fits better into the ruts rather than fighting it like the larger tyres.
The second number in the tyre (such as 80, 90, 100) is the 'series' and this is the height of the tyre, ie; 80% of 120mm = 96mm tall. A taller tyre provides more flex and more feeling through the bike.
Pressure is a different issue in itself, optimum pressure is 14psi generally however in extreme conditions changes should be made accordingly. Having a lower pressure will give you more surface area on the tyre thus more grip, however you can go too far and end up giving yourself a performance deduction.
Brakes
Brakes are not so important since they only slow you down!
Front Leverage is an odd measurement in mxb so I will give you a simple explanation of this - A lower leverage will increase how sharp the brake will come on and a higher leverage will make the brake smoother.
This a great setting to play with if you are struggling to keep your front end from locking or not braking enough.
Rear Disc options are a new feature to the oems and can be something that is overlooked or missed quite easily, there are a range of different options available for each bike however take away the brand and most bikes are left with a 220 and a 240 disc option.
A 240mm will give you better heat management and a stronger braking power. Sometimes this can be too much and you end up locking up/sliding and doing other not great things. This is where the 220mm will come into play, offering a slightly weaker brake it allows you to be less precise with your brake input and more heavy handed without consequence.
Suspension
Spring
Spring is an interesting one for mxb since they are used differently then you would in real life, now if you know irl suspension then you know that the spring is changed based on the rider weight so that the suspension is not too stiff for a light guy or not too soft for a heavy guy.
However everyone in mxb is the same weight! The rider is 80kg here which means using the spring to go with the wide range of rider weight is not an option here but instead it can be used to adjust the sag and play a small part in the other characteristics of the suspension.
Going down a spring rate will ultimately make the suspension softer and increase sag - going up in the spring rate will do the opposite, this is true for both front and rear.
Fun Fact: More sag gives you additional stability at high speeds, while less sag gives you a greater turning ability in the tighter tracks such as SX!
Bump
Important Note: irl we turn the clicker all the way in (clockwise) and then count the clicks out (counter-clockwise), in mxb the 0 number for Bump and Rebound is the same as the irl clicker wound all the way in (clockwise)
Bump is what mxb currently calls the compression, compression is the rate that the fork or shock compresses. Increasing the compression number will soften the suspension and decreasing will do the opposite, but remember stiffer is not always better…
Slow and Fast bump is the low speed compression and high speed compression, these are what keep the shock producing a consistent force over the range of speeds it compresses at. This is too complex for a simple piston to work with so the shock has valves which open or close depending on the speed at which the shock is compressing at thusly giving is high and low speed COMP.
The use of Low and High speed is not any relevance to how fast the bike is moving but is actually related to the speed at which the shock is compressing at.
For example, usage of low speed compression would be in scenarios such as applying the brakes, smooth power application, smooth hill or jump transitions - Basically the smooth loads on the shock.
High speed compression is the opposite of the low speed, it is for the compression when the shock is moving at a fast rate such as scenarios like in the mid to end of whoops, a group of steep braking bumps - the harsh fast loads. Basically compression controls the speed at which the forks are able to compress
Rebound
Rebound is what the suspension uses to return the fork or shock to full extension once it has compressed. Rebound controls the speed at which the suspension is allowed to extend for example if you land and your front end bounces off the ground once the suspension has finished compressing, this could be due to rebound being too fast - But that situation has a lot that could be causing it so just take that example with a grain of salt...
Increasing the rebound number can also be viewed as speeding up the rebound and decreasing being the opposite, slowing it down, this applies to both front and rear.
Preload
Preload is a setting used to control how much force is on the spring of the shock or forks before compression has happened, in other works increasing the preload of the spring will mean that you require A. More force to start the stroke (compression) and B. Each mm of compression will exert a greater or larger force depending on how much Preload is on the spring.
Essentially - Increasing preload makes the spring more compressed before the stroke has begun and decreasing it makes the spring less compressed before the stroke. Springs will output/require a different amount of force depending on how compressed they are.
Oil
Something to note straight away - for our OEM bikes in MXB we decided that all bikes will run oil sprung forks and not air forks as we found the air to be a bit funky.
Oil is used in the fork to aid in controlling the rate at which the forks compress, increasing oil will ultimately increase the stiffness of your suspension and decreasing will do the opposite and make them softer.
It is very important to remember how oil is measured as it can be very confusing for someone who doesn't know about it irl. The measurement of fork oil is taken from the distance between the oil and the top of the fork leg chamber.
In mxb this translates to a smaller mm measurement of oil will be a larger amount of oil, a larger mm measurement of oil will be a smaller amount of oil.
Drivetrain
Gears
Gearing is pretty straight forward thankfully, the size (number) of the sprocket is the amount of teeth (spikes) it has. Increasing the size or the amount of teeth will make the gears shorter but more aggressive and decreasing the size or the amount of teeth will make the gears longer but less aggressive.
A good rule of thumb is one size change on the front equates to roughly the equivalent of two size changes on the rear.
Generally it is personal preference so you will need to test some sizes to see what works best for you however as a baseline you can expect to run longer gears on tracks will long straights and fast wide corners and then shorter gears on track that are alot more stop start and tight.
Others
Fork Offset
Fork offset works a little differently in mxb compared to irl, it is the distance between the fork and the steering axis. It is used to change the turning and stability characteristics of the machine by essentially moving the weight of the bike forwards or backwards. Increasing the offset will move the forks further from the frame, increasing the wheelbase, and making a more stable bike.
Decreasing the offset will bring the forks closer to the frame, decreasing the wheelbase, and making a more agile bike.
The change that this setting brings is quite dramatic so I recommend only going a click or so in a direction when testing the settings to find your sweet spot for the given track and its condictions.
Fork Height
Fork height is the measurement of how much of the fork is coming out the top of the triple clamps, this is used to change turning and stability characteristics of the bike.
Making the number larger will pull the fork through the clamps more so the front end is lower then to the ground shifting the weight further forwards, increasing the ability to turn tight, gives greater turning control but less high speed stability.
Swingarm Length
Swingarm length is a measurement taken from the distance between the swingarm pivot (bolt that connects it to the frame area) to the rear wheel axle, this is used to effect the turning stability and turning capabilities of the bike.
Increasing the length will generally provide greater stability turning at speed however decrease the ability to turn tighter.
Decreasing the length will provide a greater tight turning ability however decreasing the high speed turning stability.
Rod Length
Rod length is the measurement of the main linkage arm, it is used to change how progressive or linear the shock’s stroke travel is.
Increasing the rod length will make the stroke a more progressive rate whilst decreasing the length will make the stroke more linear. An important note of rod length is - once you alter the rod length you need to adjust your sag to compensate for the change.
Mapping
Mapping is a very large subject as each bike has a different dyno chat set to each map option so there is no quick explanation. We'll update this part with the different bikes mapping in the near future, please excuse us for the wait. It goes brapppppppppp
Fantic -
XXF450
2023 -
The 2023 mapping option is the default option for the 2023 XXF 450, this features a smooth bottom end but a hard hitting top end. This mapping choice is great for you rider who love to rev the bike hard for the power - the 2023 mapping also has the strongest top end out of all the mapping options.
2022 -
The 2022 mapping option is overall the smoothest and most consistent mapping option available for the 2023 XXF450 however the bottom end is the hardest hitting, the 2022 map has no weak spots so it is ideal for well rounded riders who thrive in any rev range. The consistency of this mapping compared to the others will leave you happy in all rev ranges and will deliver no surprises when getting on the throttle.
2021 -
The 2021 mapping option is largely the same as the 2022 map however, the 2021 features a very agressive bottom end hit than what is on the 2022 map but fades off slightly after the initial throttle input. If you have used the 2022 map and thought it could do with some extra BEANZ in the bottom end, then this could be a great choice for you.
2021 XEF -
The 2021 XEF mapping option is the enduro engine map
XXF250
2022 -
The 2022 map for the Fantic XXF250 is the most well rounded of the mappings, the three are very close to one an other however this 2022 option features are HP of the 2021 map but with a lot less drop off like the 2020 option.
2021 -
The 2021 map for the Fantic XXF250 is on par pretty much identically to the 2022 option however this features a step sudden incline in HP around the 12.8K rev mark before very rapidly falling off in HP around the 13K rev mark, it once again is well rounded similar to the 2022 option however it has the above mentioned drop off.
2020 -
The 2020 map for the Fantic XXF250 is the least powerful of the three available options, it features a overall smooth power delivery with no suprises much like the 2022 mapping but just less in the HP department. The drop in HP is very small however if you are looking to get everything out of the bike then this is not the mapping for you, I would recommend this for newer players to get used to on.
GasGas -
MC450F
2023 -
The 2023 map is the standard option for the MC450F, as the gasgas overall features the most different dyno out of the Austrian lineup. This map gives a smooth and predictible low and mid range and hits Peak HP around the 9k rpm mark however it then falls off slightly rapidly but then picks back up before dropping again.
2022 -
The 2022 map follows in the footsteps of the 2023 dyno in the shape and characteristics however it has overall less HP and a lower Peak HP.
2021 -
The 2021 once again mostly follows the characteristics of the 2022 and 2023 options however it provides the most HP and highest Peak HP, it also almost removes the small drop off in power present in the 2022 and 2023 options.
Honda -
CRF450R
2023 -
The 2023 CRF450R map is overall the most aggressive choice out of the three maps, it features the strongest mid and top end but also a good bottom end too. The transition from the bottom end to the mid range is fairly smooth considering how strong it is with no real fall off in these areas, the top end being the strongest however it does fall off faster than other map options. This would be ideal for a rider who likes to live in all areas of the rev range but will require you to be more respectful of the power.
2022 -
The 2022 CRF450R map is the most consistent power delivery throughout the RPM Range, It has a strong top end and the most mellow bottom end out of the three available mappings. This map will be good for those who are a bit more heavy handed on the throttle but at the same time will no deliever any suprises to the rider, good power all around.
2021 -
The 2021 CRF450R map is one of the three available map options for the Honda. This map option features the hardest hitting initial power delivery and also the strongest top end out of the three mappings available. Over the whole RPM Range, the 2021 map will initially in all 3 rev ranges hit harder than the 2023 map however the 21 will quickly fall off inbetween the intial hit of the low mid and high range. This is the best map for those who are heavy revers in the top end of the bike all the time.
CRF250R
2023 -
The 2023 CRF250R map is one of the three maps available for this bike and also is the default mapping. The highlight of this option is that is it very well rounded, meaning that it is suited to the riders who are lugging it or are screaming it - it will offer no shocks of power or lack there-of when being rode like a 250 should.
2022 -
The 2022 CRF250R map is the second available for this bike. This 22 option is ideal for those new or returning players who want enough power to get around but don't want to be having to control it, it is very similar to the 2023 map however it is more smoother but slightly less powerful. Out of the three, this option is the least powerful.
2021 -
The 2021 map option for the CRF250R is the third and final choice for this machine. It boasts the hardest hitting top end which makes it ideal for you boys who love to rev the guts out of your bike, however this option has the weakest mid range by some margin. The bottom end is very similar across all three options however the 21 is the weakest mid with the most aggressive top end.
Husqvarna -
FC450
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the FC450, the power delivery on the Husky is actually extremely consistent and predictable. You definitely will not feel short of any power on this map option with most of the power being located in the mid-high section of the rev range.
Green -
The green map aka Agressive map is the ...agressive option, this features an almost identical form of power curve to that of the White map however it offers much more HP and holds the top HP range for longer - this also makes the bottom, mid and top much more agressive. If the white felt a little lackluster then this is perfect for you.
FC350
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the FC350, the power delivery on the 350 Husky is actually extremely different to the 450 curve. You have to ride the 350 in more of a 250 style to get the maximum out of this machine with the power being centred mostly towards the top end of the rev range, the standard map is still not short on power so don't feel discuraged to try out the 350.
Green -
The green map aka Agressive map is the ...agressive option, this features an almost identical form of power curve to that of the White map however it offers much more HP and holds the top HP range for longer - this also makes the bottom, mid and top much more agressive. If the white felt a little lackluster then this is perfect for you.
FC250
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the FC250, the curve is suprisingly consistent throughout the rev ranges. It features a steady increase with no real peaks or suprises and is probabily one of the best engines for a lower level guy or a new guy to learn on.
Green -
The green map aka Agressive map is the ...agressive option, this map keeps almost an identical curve form as the White map however it removes the dips of power and brings the whole map into higher HP in each of the respective areas. The Green Husky map offers the strongest top end and most consisten mapping - this is ideal for all the racers out there.
Kawasaki -
KX450
2023 -
The 2023 mapping option for the KX450 is overall not the smoothest power delievery however it boasts a very intense initial hit on the bottom end, falling away a little in the mid range but then providing the most powerful top end out of all the maps. It features a small drop off in the high range towards the very top of the revs however overall it shouldnt be too noticable if at all.
2022 -
The 2022 map is almost the same curve as the 2023 map option however the 2022 has a weaker low end and smoother mid-top end but overall it produces less HP than that of the 2023 map, this is not strictly a bad thing however as it can help people learn the power of a 450 or those who are struggling with tyre spin.
2021 -
The 2021 map gives you the HP of the 2023 mapping but with a more consistent bottom end, this is a very consistent but agressive map and would be a hard choice between this and the 2023 option. If you find the 2023 map to be somewhat lacking then this could be a great option for you to try.
2020 -
The 2020 map option features a curve which is extremely similar to the 2021 map however it deals slightly less HP than the 2021. If you like the 2021 power delivery but struggle with it being a bit too much then this could be a great choice for you.
2019 -
The 2019 map is once again extremely similar to the 2021 option however this 2019 map features a slightly stronger mid range than the 2021.
KX250
2022 -
The 2022 map option is a very consistent power delivery through out all of the rev ranges however at the very top end it falls off, this is better for those riders who want to keep it more towards the mid-high rev range.
2021 -
The 2021 map option is almost exactly like the 2022 map however it can rev higher and doesnt feature a drop in HP at the top end of the revs, this map is best suited for the hard revers amongust us.
2020 -
The 2020 map is more like the 2021 map in the sense that is promotes the high revs however it falls short of the 2021 map slightly.
KTM -
450SX-F
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the 450SX-F, the power delivery on the KTM is actually extremely agressive but predictable. You definitely will not feel short of any power on this map option with most of the power being located in the mid-high section of the rev range.
Green -
The green mapping is the more aggresive option for the 450SX-F, this dyno follows generally the same shape and consistency as the White map however everything is elevated in the HP department. This bike combined with this map produces an absolute monster and should be rode by those who are experienced.
350SX-F
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the 350SX-F, the power delivery on the 350 KTM is actually extremely different to the 450 curve. You have to ride the 350 in more of a 250 style to get the maximum out of this machine with the power being centred mostly towards the top end of the rev range, the standard map is still not short on power so don't feel discuraged to try out the 350.
Green -
The green map aka Agressive map is the ...agressive option, this map keeps almost an identical curve form as the White map however it removes the dips of power and brings the whole map into higher HP in each of the respective areas. In terms of Austrian 250F machines, the Green KTM map offers the strongest top end and most consisten mapping - this is ideal for all the racers out there.
250SX-F
White -
The white mapping is the standard map for the FC250, the curve is suprisingly consistent throughout the rev ranges. It features a steady increase with no real peaks or suprises and is probabily one of the best engines for a lower level guy or a new guy to learn on.
Green -
The green mapping is the more agressive map for the 250SX-F, the KTM has one of the strongest engines in the class with a consistent climb in HP as you progress through the rev range. Peaking at just under 14k RPM, but staying strong and consistent all the way up to this point. Perfect for those who are looking for a little bit more than something like Husky can offer you.
Suzuki -
RMZ450
2023 -
The 2023 map is the standard mapping option for the RMZ450, this dyno thrives in the 8-9k rev range (mid-high revs) producing a power that is much more useable and controllable than that of the other 450s in the class, once you are past that 9k rev mark the power starts to fall off so it compliments a smooth and mid rev range riding style.
2022 -
The 2022 map follows the same shape and philosophy as the 2023 option however it provides less Peak HP.
2021 -
The 2021 map follows the same shape and philosophy as the 2022 option however it provides less Peak HP.
2020 -
The 2020 map follows the same shape and philosophy as the 2021 option however it falls off from the Peak HP slightly less than the 2021.
Yoshimura -
The Yoshimura mapping option is the power house choice for the RMZ450, it follows closely with the 2023 dyno however it provides more peak HP and less drop off after the Peak HP point. If you want to race this bike and get the most out of it power wise then this is the option for you.
RMZ250
2022 -
The 2022 mapping option for the RMZ250 is extremely predictable thanks to it's smooth curve and no real spikes in HP throughout the revs. Out of the standard year mappings, this is the most powerful option. There is nothing bad about this map but there isnt anything fantastic, exepect a very dependable and predictable bike using this dyno.
2021 -
The 2021 mapping option for the RMZ250 follows almost the exact same dyno curve of that of the 2022 option however it produces less horsepower and features a drop off of the power onec you get to the 13k RPM range - this drop not featuring on the 2022 map nor the 2020, this reduction of horsepower is only extremely minimal however making it almost undetectable to the rider. Much like the 2022 map, this will give you that smooth - dependable and predictable response.
2020 -
THe 2020 mapping option for the RMZ250 is almost the middle ground between the 2022 option and the 2021 option, it follows a similar HP output of that of the 2021 map however it doesnt feature the drop off of power like the 2021 option does. If the 2022 is a bit much for you and the 2021 is not enough, this is your perfect option.
Yoshimura -
The Yoshimura map, not much to say other than it is integral if you are to race this bike competitively. It produces the most horsepower of the 4 options, it peaks HP output around the 13.5k rev range making this bike ideal for the heavy rev riders. Moving down to the lower revs, it follows almost the same dyno as the others however producing a greater amount of horsepower at all points.
TM Racing -
MX450Fi
Standard -
The Standard map is the standard... option for the MX450Fi, much to everyone's suprise this bike actually provides one of the smoothest and most predicitble dynos in the MX1 class. It has no flat spots nor any sharp peaks so it gives the user a consistent and easy experience when getting on the throttle. Don't let the smoothness fall you though as it is still a power house in the Peak HP department.
Mellow -
The Mellow map follows almost identically to the Standard map however it smooths out the mid range revs more to give that extra bit of forgiveness out the turns.
Agressive -
The Agressive map once again follows the other two options in the sense that it features no flat spots nor any peaks. This option features a massivly agressive bottom and mid range with an insane Peak HP, this map will turn the bike into a wild bull letting only the best tame it.
Yamaha -
YZF450
2023 -
The 2023 mapping option is the default option for the 2023 YZF450, this features a smooth bottom end but a hard hitting top end. This mapping choice is great for you rider who love to rev the bike hard for the power - the 2023 mapping also has the strongest top end out of all the mapping options.
2022 -
The 2022 mapping option is the smoothest/most progressive and consistent mapping option available for the 2023 YZF450, the 2022 map has no weak spots so it is ideal for well rounded riders who thrive in any rev range. The consistency of this mapping compared to the others will leave you happy in all rev ranges and will deliver no surprises when getting on the throttle.
2021 -
The 2021 mapping option is largely the same as the 2022 map however, the 2021 features a stronger bottom end than what is on the 2022 map. If you have used the 2022 map and thought it could do with some extra BEANZ in the bottom end, then this could be a great choice for you.
2021WR -
(Awaiting a full write up)
2020 -
The 2020 mapping features a strong bottom end much like the 2021 option however the 2020 falls off massively in the top of the mid end and the whole top end.
YZF250
2022 -
The 2022 map option features the strongest bottom end and the stongest top end out of the available options by some margin, it somewhat dips a little in power during the mid range compared to the other options however it makes it up massivly in the top and bottom end power. This is the ideal racer map as it will get you where you need to go fastest.
2021 -
The 2021 map has a similar progression to that of the 22 however it is a lot more down on power, the 21 has a smoother mid range than the 22 also. This would be the ideal map for someone who is learning the game and doesnt want so much power.
2020 -
The 2020 map option is very similar to the 21 power wise however it has a much harder hitting transition to the top end from the mid range, this is a map that caters more to riders who rev a lot. This is still down on power compared to the 2022 map however.