OEM Manual

Before we start

Banner of the OEM Manual
The official OEM Manual, by SD and GreenLenux

We are beyond excited to finally release this document to the world! This is a creation from GreenLenux and SD Factory Suspension Works, we'll keep updating the document in the future so it will be compatible with the next OEM updates. You have to keep in mind one thing: it is a guide to help you setup your bike, not a magic setup maker fixer thinger. You'll have to read, and use your brain to come up with the best setup for yourself.



Download the brand new OEM pack here on MXB-MODS.com (alts: Mega, Mediafire).


If you had a correct installation of v0.18.0 before, you can simply overwrite all existing bikes and replace with the new ones. All your previous skins should work perfectly fine.

Some of your current model swaps will NOT work properly. They need to be updated by the modellers due to changes to the import. This is just a matter of time so please be patient!

Move the content from MX OEM ... PLAYER into your own mods folder.
For example: My Documents\PiBoSo\MX Bikes\mods\


Move the content from MX OEM ... SERVER into the servers' mods folder.



Fuel is the go fast juice that we put into the motorcycle to allow it to run.

Fuel load can be very helpful for shaving a tenth or two off a lap time so it is important for racers to ‘lighten the load’ to get the lightest bike and the fastest lap times.

In turn, it is also important to find the amount of fuel you use during a moto as running out will leave you stranded! You can see your remaining fuel load from your previous ride by going to the pits > garage > general.
Here in the bottom right you will see a fuel amount, this is the remaining fuel in your tank. Using some basic subtraction, you can deduce the amount of fuel you need to take so you are not weighed down by extra.




Primarily used for Softer/Moist grippy dirt, it is the in between tyre available in terms of tyre flexibility hence mid soft tyre flexibility for soft dirt.


Primarily used for more solid dirt and hardpack/sun baked, it is the softest tyre available which works well for hard tracks since the knobbies can flex to find traction more so than other compounds.


Primarily used for very soft dirt/sand, it is the stiffest in terms of knobbies flexibility and has great straight line traction however it suffers in the turns due to the scoop like knobbies. It is stiff so that the tyre can pull through the dirt rather than flexing around it since it is soft.



80/100 - 90/90


100/90 - 110/90 - 120/80

The tyre sizes can be confusing for anyone (even irl riders!!) so here is a very simplified explanation that can help you perfect your setups

The first number in the tyre (such as 100,110,120) is generally referred to as the ‘size’ but actually it is the ‘profile’ and this is the width of the tyre in mm. A wider tyre provides greater grip/traction however a result of this is a larger surface area which gives you more friction/drag thusly slowing you down a little bit - a larger tyre will also make riding thin ruts more difficult as the tyre is fighting to stay inside. 

A thinner tyre would provide less grip however you have less drag and can go a little faster. The thinner tyre also will make riding thin ruts easier as the smaller tyre fits better into the ruts rather than fighting it like the larger tyres.

The second number in the tyre (such as 80, 90, 100) is the 'series' and this is the height of the tyre, ie; 80% of 120mm = 96mm tall. A taller tyre provides more flex and more feeling through the bike.

Pressure is a different issue in itself, optimum pressure is 14psi generally however in extreme conditions changes should be made accordingly. Having a lower pressure will give you more surface area on the tyre thus more grip, however you can go too far and end up giving yourself a performance deduction.


Brakes are not so important since they only slow you down!

Front Leverage is an odd measurement in mxb so I will give you a simple explanation of this - A lower leverage will increase how sharp the brake will come on and a higher leverage will make the brake smoother.

This a great setting to play with if you are struggling to keep your front end from locking or not braking enough.

Rear Disc options are a new feature to the oems and can be something that is overlooked or missed quite easily, there are a range of different options available for each bike however take away the brand and most bikes are left with a 220 and a 240 disc option.

A 240mm will give you better heat management and a stronger braking power. Sometimes this can be too much and you end up locking up/sliding and doing other not great things. This is where the 220mm will come into play, offering a slightly weaker brake it allows you to be less precise with your brake input and more heavy handed without consequence.



Spring is an interesting one for mxb since they are used differently then you would in real life, now if you know irl suspension then you know that the spring is changed based on the rider weight so that the suspension is not too stiff for a light guy or not too soft for a heavy guy.

However everyone in mxb is the same weight! The rider is 80kg here which means using the spring to go with the wide range of rider weight is not an option here but instead it can be used to adjust the sag and play a small part in the other characteristics of the suspension.

Going down a spring rate will ultimately make the suspension softer and increase sag - going up in the spring rate will do the opposite, this is true for both front and rear.


Important Note: irl we turn the clicker all the way in (clockwise) and then count the clicks out (counter-clockwise), in mxb the 0 number for Bump and Rebound is the same as the irl clicker wound all the way in


Bump is what mxb currently calls the compression, compression is the rate that the fork or shock compresses. Increasing the compression number will soften the suspension and decreasing will do the opposite, but remember stiffer is not always better…

Slow and Fast bump is the low speed compression and high speed compression, these are what keep the shock producing a consistent force over the range of speeds it compresses at. This is too complex for a simple piston to work with so the shock has valves which open or close depending on the speed at which the shock is compressing at thusly giving is high and low speed COMP.

The use of Low and High speed is not any relevance to how fast the bike is moving but is actually related to the speed at which the shock is compressing at.

For example, usage of low speed compression would be in scenarios such as applying the brakes, smooth power application, smooth hill or jump transitions - Basically the smooth loads on the shock.

High speed compression is the opposite of the low speed, it is for the compression when the shock is moving at a fast rate such as scenarios like in the mid to end of whoops, a group of steep braking bumps - the harsh fast loads. Basically compression controls the speed at which the forks are able to compress


Rebound is what the suspension uses to return the fork or shock to full extension once it has compressed. Rebound controls the speed at which the suspension is allowed to extend for example if you land and your front end bounces off the ground once the suspension has finished compressing, this could be due to rebound being too fast - But that situation has a lot that could be causing it so just take that example with a grain of salt...

Increasing the rebound number can also be viewed as speeding up the rebound and decreasing being the opposite, slowing it down, this applies to both front and rear.


Preload is a setting used to control how much force is on the spring of the shock or forks before compression has happened, in other works increasing the preload of the spring will mean that you require A. More force to start the stroke (compression) and B. Each mm of compression will exert a greater or larger force depending on how much Preload is on the spring.

Essentially - Increasing preload makes the spring more compressed before the stroke has begun and decreasing it makes the spring less compressed before the stroke. Springs will output/require a different amount of force depending on how compressed they are.


Something to note straight away - for our OEM bikes in MXB we decided that all bikes will run oil sprung forks and not air forks as we found the air to be a bit funky.

Oil is used in the fork to aid in controlling the rate at which the forks compress, increasing oil will ultimately increase the stiffness of your suspension and decreasing will do the opposite and make them softer.

It is very important to remember how oil is measured as it can be very confusing for someone who doesn't know about it irl. The measurement of fork oil is taken from the distance between the oil and the top of the fork leg chamber.

In mxb this translates to a smaller mm measurement of oil will be a larger amount of oil, a larger mm measurement of oil will be a smaller amount of oil.



Gearing is pretty straight forward thankfully, the size (number) of the sprocket is the amount of teeth (spikes) it has. Increasing the size or the amount of teeth will make the gears shorter but more aggressive and decreasing the size or the amount of teeth will make the gears longer but less aggressive.

A good rule of thumb is one size change on the front equates to roughly the equivalent of two size changes on the rear.

Generally it is personal preference so you will need to test some sizes to see what works best for you however as a baseline you can expect to run longer gears on tracks will long straights and fast wide corners and then shorter gears on track that are alot more stop start and tight.


Fork Offset

Fork offset works a little differently in mxb compared to irl, it is the distance between the fork and the steering axis. It is used to change the turning and stability characteristics of the machine by essentially moving the weight of the bike forwards or backwards. Increasing the offset will move the forks further from the frame, increasing the wheelbase, and making a more stable bike.

Decreasing the offset will bring the forks closer to the frame, decreasing the wheelbase, and making a more agile bike.

The change that this setting brings is quite dramatic so I recommend only going a click or so in a direction when testing the settings to find your sweet spot for the given track and its condictions.

Fork Height

Fork height is the measurement of how much of the fork is coming out the top of the triple clamps, this is used to change turning and stability characteristics of the bike.

Making the number larger will pull the fork through the clamps more so the front end is lower then to the ground shifting the weight further forwards, increasing the ability to turn tight, gives greater turning control but less high speed stability.

Swingarm Length

Swingarm length is a measurement taken from the distance between the swingarm pivot (bolt that connects it to the frame area) to the rear wheel axle, this is used to effect the turning stability and turning capabilities of the bike.

Increasing the length will generally provide greater stability turning at speed however decrease the ability to turn tighter.

Decreasing the length will provide a greater tight turning ability however decreasing the high speed turning stability.

Rod Length

Rod length is the measurement of the main linkage arm, it is used to change how progressive or linear the shock’s stroke travel is.

Increasing the rod length will make the stroke a more progressive rate whilst decreasing the length will make the stroke more linear. An important note of rod length is - once you alter the rod length you need to adjust your sag to compensate for the change.


Mapping is a very large subject as each bike has a different dyno chat set to each map option so there is no quick explanation. We'll update this part with the different bikes mapping in the near future, please excuse us for the wait. It goes brapppppppppp